

That driver’s license number was unsightly on the lower tang.First I removed all parts from the tang, then, using a bastard file, I draw-filed just enough to remove the DL number.Using a shoeshine motion, I then polished the surface with 320-grit wet/dry paper until there were no file marks.I taped the edges of the tang to protect the bluing then bead-blasted the newly polished surface.I cleaned the blasted surface with acetone, then cold blued.The result is shown in the above photo.Ī note about cold bluing:I use Van’s Instant Gun Blue because I like the results.The part I’m bluing must be perfectly clean I use acetone for cleaning.For small parts, I like to immerse them in the gun blue solution.I use small aluminum tins I purchased at the grocery store.For large parts, I use a toothbrush to brush the liquid on the part, constantly keeping the part wet so the bluing can work.This is not a “wipe and go” product.I let the part soak/stay wet for 3 to 5 minutes, wipe it dry, then coat with a good gun oil. Remove DL Number, Polish and Refinish Lower Tang This rifle did not really have any deep rust pits, so it was easy to remove the surface rust with 000 steel wool and gun oil.I put a few drops of Hoppes gun oil on a piece of 000 steel wool and worked it over the metal.The surface rust came right off but left a slight blemish.With a coat of good gun oil you can hardly see these blemishes.After rubbing with the oiled steel wool I wiped off the part with a clean rag, sprayed with brake parts cleaner to remove any old oil and grease, then coated with Breakfree CLP. Remove the Surface Rust from the Barrel and Lever I used my Action Wrench with a universal head, and my barrel vise to unscrew the barrel from the receiver.I put tape around the front of the receiver before installing the action wrench.Separating the barrel and receiver will make them easier to work on.

I completely disassembled the rifle and found no rust inside.This was good news!Some screw-heads were buggered from someone using hardware store tapered screwdrivers, or incorrect sizes of screwdrivers, but I cleaned those up with a file and cold-blued. Removing the sights was easy they tapped right out from left to right with a brass punch.The front dovetail on the front sight was peened up because the sight was installed incorrectly, so I took a punch and flattened as much of the raised lip as I could. Inlet a Morgan silver dollar into the butt stock. Glass bed the fore end to remove looseness and refinish. Reassemble the rifle with dry-firing firing pin.

Remove DL number, polish and refinish lower tang. Remove the surface rust from the barrel and lever. This rifle is not really going to be a shooter, although it could be.It’s mostly for display purposes so I plan to reassemble it so it cannot be fired.However, since I have it apart I’ll do some basic work to it if I ever want it to be a shooter.Ĭompletely disassemble the rifle and check for internal rust/damage. I scrubbed the bore with Remington Bore Cleaner and fortunately, the bore looked fairly clean and sharp.The lands were nice and sharp at the muzzle, indicating to me that the rifle was not used much, nor cleaned very often.There was, however, some surface rust in the bore. I think the worst case of abuse I found on this rifle was the front sight.It looked like someone had tried to replace the front sight with a higher one, which did not fit into the dovetail, or they may have removed the front sight to mount a scope, then tried to re-install it when they sold the rifle.Most of the scope mounting hole plug screw slots were buggered.In the photo above you can clearly see the gap below the bottom of the sight.

The fore end had about 1/16 inch play forward and backward as you can see in the above photo. It looked like the wood had been replaced and had some nicks and scratches, but was in otherwise excellent condition.The original Sears butt plate did not fit properly as you can see in the above photo.Because the end of the butt stock was wider than the butt plate the stock was prone to chipping.
